I caught the sunset. And made it more interesting to me...
for the moment. :)
Monday, September 28, 2009
Four Pictures
Four Picture Assignment
These are my awesomely creative photos (cough.)
Meet the only plant in my house and the fish tank where my fish Charlie lives.
1. Low f-stop resulting in need to adjust shutter speed (higher)
***Notice the b.l.u.r. in the background.***
Yeah. That's the result of a low f-stop.
Yeah.
2. Higher f-stop resulting in the need to adjust shutter speed (lower) and I had to up my ISO to 1600 to get the same (or nearly the same) exposure as the one with the lower f-stop
***Notice in focus background***
That would be the result of a higher f-stop.
That's right.
3. This was taken with a somewhat fast shutter speed.***Notice the shutter speed was able to "somewhat" stop motion (a.k.a. the bubbles moving in the fish tank)***
4. This photo was taken with a lower shutter speed, thus, the bubbles are blurry as the particular shutter speed was too slow to capture motion.
***Notice out of focus bubbles.***
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Four Pictures Assignment
Narrow Depth of Field
To create a narrow depth of field in a photograph, you need to set your camera to a low f stop, and depending on the amount of light, you need to adjust your shutter speed to complement the low f stop. In low light situations, you may need to bump up your ISO so your photograph doesn't come out too dark.
With a low f stop, you are only going to have a small portion of your photograph in focus and the rest will be blurred. The amount of blur in the photograph will depend on your lens and how low the f stop is. (f/1.8=very blurry or not much is in focus, f/22=not blurry or everything's in focus)
On my rebel xsi, the aperture button is on the face of the camera. You have to hold that button down and use the shutter speed dial to adjust the f stop. The ISO button is near the shutter speed dial; both are located on the top right of the camera.
Wide Depth of Field
To achieve a wide depth of field, you need to do the opposite of what you would with a narrow depth of field. Your goal is to get most, if not all, of the photograph in focus, therefore you need to have a higher f stop. From there, you need to adjust the shutter speed and ISO to fit the right exposure with this particular f stop.
(Note: The above mentioned steps are if you have your camera set to manual. There are aperture and shutter priority settings that makes this process easier. In that case, you set your aperture or shutter and the camera does the rest for you to achieve the right exposure.)
Short Exposure
With long and short exposures, your focus is shutter speed. The dial for shutter speed adjustment, as mentioned earlier, is found on the top right hand of the rebel xsi. For a short exposure, your shutter speed needs to be relatively fast. Depending on what you are shooting and the speed in which the object you are shooting is moving... the shutter speed needs to be adjusted. (Faster the object=Faster shutter speed.)
Long Exposure
To get a long exposed picture, once again, use the shutter speed dial and instead of raising the shutter speed for a short exposure, the shutter speed needs to be slow for the long exposure. Long exposures are for inanimate objects, or for blurring of motion. In those situations, the more blur you want, the lower shutter speed you want.
To create a narrow depth of field in a photograph, you need to set your camera to a low f stop, and depending on the amount of light, you need to adjust your shutter speed to complement the low f stop. In low light situations, you may need to bump up your ISO so your photograph doesn't come out too dark.
With a low f stop, you are only going to have a small portion of your photograph in focus and the rest will be blurred. The amount of blur in the photograph will depend on your lens and how low the f stop is. (f/1.8=very blurry or not much is in focus, f/22=not blurry or everything's in focus)
On my rebel xsi, the aperture button is on the face of the camera. You have to hold that button down and use the shutter speed dial to adjust the f stop. The ISO button is near the shutter speed dial; both are located on the top right of the camera.
Wide Depth of Field
To achieve a wide depth of field, you need to do the opposite of what you would with a narrow depth of field. Your goal is to get most, if not all, of the photograph in focus, therefore you need to have a higher f stop. From there, you need to adjust the shutter speed and ISO to fit the right exposure with this particular f stop.
(Note: The above mentioned steps are if you have your camera set to manual. There are aperture and shutter priority settings that makes this process easier. In that case, you set your aperture or shutter and the camera does the rest for you to achieve the right exposure.)
Short Exposure
With long and short exposures, your focus is shutter speed. The dial for shutter speed adjustment, as mentioned earlier, is found on the top right hand of the rebel xsi. For a short exposure, your shutter speed needs to be relatively fast. Depending on what you are shooting and the speed in which the object you are shooting is moving... the shutter speed needs to be adjusted. (Faster the object=Faster shutter speed.)
Long Exposure
To get a long exposed picture, once again, use the shutter speed dial and instead of raising the shutter speed for a short exposure, the shutter speed needs to be slow for the long exposure. Long exposures are for inanimate objects, or for blurring of motion. In those situations, the more blur you want, the lower shutter speed you want.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Modifying Natural Light
I found this section of our book quite handy because I've had many questions myself on what filters I should use for different effects that I'm going for.
The book talks about polarizing filters, split neutral density filters, graduated neutral density filters, standard ND filters, blue/gold polarizing filters, and some other items to use while creating the light and colors that you are looking for.
Probably my favorite, or the one I might find most useful is the Split neutral density filters. This is used by a lot of landscape photographers and it enables them to use part of the filter, that has a grey tint on it, to cover a highly lighted area, or overexposed area of the shoot, to darken that part of the image. Genius. :)
The book talks about polarizing filters, split neutral density filters, graduated neutral density filters, standard ND filters, blue/gold polarizing filters, and some other items to use while creating the light and colors that you are looking for.
Probably my favorite, or the one I might find most useful is the Split neutral density filters. This is used by a lot of landscape photographers and it enables them to use part of the filter, that has a grey tint on it, to cover a highly lighted area, or overexposed area of the shoot, to darken that part of the image. Genius. :)
Monday, September 21, 2009
Yellowstone Trip
YELLOWSTONE
A dead tree in between sulfur stuff...
some form of growth around a sulfur pool
the colors in this area amazed me...
dead trees really captivated my attention on this trip..
I was trying to get the small drops of water on the limbs of this plant-thingyThis is as far as my lense would go.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Exposure
Achieving a great exposure is much easier with digital cameras than it used to be with a traditional film camera.
On a digital camera, a photographer is able to adjust the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO to create the perfect exposure for what they are trying to shoot.
Another great thing about digital cameras is that there is a setting on your cameras that allows your display to entail a histogram letting you know the levels of the photo and what you may need to improve on for better exposure.
Evaluative/Matrix metering is much better than average metering and should be set as default on your camera. Spot metering focuses on a central spot that represents about "6 percent of the picture area." Center-weighted metering, however, gives about 75% to the center of the photograph.
There are automatic settings on your camera that allow you to simply turn to that setting and the camera will do either the shutter speed, aperture,or ISO for you. However, I prefer to use only the manual setting so that I can have full control over my camera.
Higher shutter speeds are made to capture motion. Lower shutter speeds are used for low-light settings and while shooting objects that are not moving, or holding still. The lower aperture, f stop, that you have, the more light is going through into your lens, and therefore the higher aperture or f stop, the less light coming in through your camera. Having a low f-stop also focus on one small object or area and blurs out the background and surrounding image. Lower ISO images give you a better quality image and a higher ISO helps in low-light situations, but you sacrifice higher quality photos.
You can use different techniques while shooting white and light scenes, such as increasing the exposure by a stop or two to create more vivid light in the photograph and really capture those lighter tones. The same goes with darker areas, only instead of increasing the exposure, decrease by a stop or two.
On a digital camera, a photographer is able to adjust the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO to create the perfect exposure for what they are trying to shoot.
Another great thing about digital cameras is that there is a setting on your cameras that allows your display to entail a histogram letting you know the levels of the photo and what you may need to improve on for better exposure.
Evaluative/Matrix metering is much better than average metering and should be set as default on your camera. Spot metering focuses on a central spot that represents about "6 percent of the picture area." Center-weighted metering, however, gives about 75% to the center of the photograph.
There are automatic settings on your camera that allow you to simply turn to that setting and the camera will do either the shutter speed, aperture,or ISO for you. However, I prefer to use only the manual setting so that I can have full control over my camera.
Higher shutter speeds are made to capture motion. Lower shutter speeds are used for low-light settings and while shooting objects that are not moving, or holding still. The lower aperture, f stop, that you have, the more light is going through into your lens, and therefore the higher aperture or f stop, the less light coming in through your camera. Having a low f-stop also focus on one small object or area and blurs out the background and surrounding image. Lower ISO images give you a better quality image and a higher ISO helps in low-light situations, but you sacrifice higher quality photos.
You can use different techniques while shooting white and light scenes, such as increasing the exposure by a stop or two to create more vivid light in the photograph and really capture those lighter tones. The same goes with darker areas, only instead of increasing the exposure, decrease by a stop or two.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Super-telephoto Lenses
Super-telephoto Lenses
The next section we were to read in our wonderful Nature Photography books was the section on super-telephoto lenses. At the beginning of this section, Fitzharris explains to us that the super-telephoto lense that would most likely be worth your next purchase would be one with 500mm f/4. He suggests this lense because it is less expensive and lighter than the 600mm, although the 600mm has the greater reach.Zoom Telephotos
Fitzharris explains to his readers that zoom telephoto lenses are "becoming more common" with today's photographers and he mentions one in particular that seems to be the "ideal choice" for nature photography: the Nikon 200-400mm f/4 VR.
Brand
Under this section, the author describes to his audience the types of brands of super-telephoto lenses that have the highest quality. Canon, of course, is on that list as well as Nikon. He mentions a few other brands but explains that with those particular lenses, they do not reach the total capacity that a Canon or Nikon brand can.
Lens Speed
This particular section really caught my attention, becuase it says that the lens speed is not as important as it use to be, thanks to better technology in lenses today. When I am shooting, I always get nervous to shoot with higher ISO because of the fear of not getting a clear, clean composition. However, Fitzharris explains that with the "development of digital sensors which produce excellent quality up to ISO 1000" is now possible. Amazing.
Close Focus
Close focusing talks about the ability to add an extension tube to your lense in order to capture large photos of small animals, plants, or other tiny objects while still getting a clear, beautiful picture.
Image Stabilization Sharpness
I think IS on the lense is one of the most ingenious things invented. I have this tool on both of my lenses and find it immensely helpful, it's not even funny. The exciting part is that IS or VR in the Nikon's case comes on super-telephoto lenses as well! And they greatly improve your photos by turning, for instance your "600mm f/4 into a super-fast 600mm f/1.4 without losing any depth of field."
Lens Color
This section merely hits on the "style" of your lense. Fitzharris warns that, even though "black super-telephoto lenses are classy and white one are intended to reflect heat, neither is suitable for nature work." That's right.. for the sake of the chance of getting an amazing picture, you need to go redneck and buy yourself a camouflage painted lense. Sacrifice the beauty of the lense for the beauty you'll create.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Let's play the 50's
Abandoned diner in Chester, Montana. Something we decidedto play with. I need to do some serious editing to
make the photo more realistic, but I'm really
excited about the potential. :) This was so much fun.
An abandoned old car in Chester, Montana. :)
Monday, September 7, 2009
Reading Overview -"Nature Photography"
Part One
The Right Equipment
Basic Kit
According to Tim Fitzharris, writer of "Nature Photography," the type of camera that most photographers, whether professional or just beginning, rely heavily upon an SLR digital camera (SLR standing for "single-lens reflex.")
Fitzharris explains in the first section of the book that there are a lot of major advantages for having a SLR digital camera. These cameras are fairly more accessible and easy to use then "traditional" film cameras from the past. He talks about how it is easier to enlarge a digital picture and how the quality of that picture will be better than a film produced composition.
Another upside to the digital SLR is the "ability to adjust ISO speed of individual takes to match shooting conditions." There are many programs out today, such as Photoshop and Photoshop Elements that also can help to tweek these types of things on a computer.
Tim Fitzharris also strongly recommends the purchase of a tripod. This tool comes in extremely handy when you are trying to shoot darker areas with less light and need to use a slower or extended shutter speed on your camera. This stabilizes the camera and allows the camera to take a significantly clear photo. He recommends that tripods with tubular legs are the best way to go. He also mentions that metal legs are really heavy, cold in the winter, and hot in the summer, so can result in problems while hiking to shoot. Fitzharris also recommends that photographers start out using a ball head on their tripods instead of pan/tilt heads with levers. Ball heads are just easier to use all the way around.
For shooting wildlife, Tim explains that a photographer will need to get a super-telephoto lense to capture wildlife from a distance and still achieve clear, brilliant photographs. He explains that the "ultimate in super-telephoto lens quality" is within the Canon's image stabilizer or if you use a Nikon (silly people, Canon's the way to go! :) ) it is called the vibration reduction. All new lenses supply these two tools and are very VERY useful in the field.
Simple zoom lenses are recommended by Fitzharris for landscaping photography. This is so you can capture more area than you particularly wouldn't if using a super-telephoto lense.
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Chipmunks, Tripods, and Cameras
The little guy in my title picture lives in Estes Park. My husband and I took a hiking trip up through the Rocky Mountains before we left Colorado this summer. There were quite a few different kinds of wildlife on the trails and I was fortunate to capture this little guy.
I have a tripod. But it's a cheap Target brand. It worked for messing around.. but I'm ready for an upgrade.
I use a Canon Rebel xsi. I love it. I find it easy to use and very flexible to do what I try to do.. :)
I have a tripod. But it's a cheap Target brand. It worked for messing around.. but I'm ready for an upgrade.
I use a Canon Rebel xsi. I love it. I find it easy to use and very flexible to do what I try to do.. :)
Portraits
Here are a few portraits in my portfolio
Warning: they are amateur-ish. :)
But it sure was a lot of fun to practice during these.
CAMBLIN FAMILYRailroad tracks in Holyoke, Colorado.
BRITNEY HIGGSself-portraiture project.
KAYLEE AND TYLER CAMBLIN
KAYLEE AND TYLER CAMBLINcouple of my favorite kids in the whole world.
SAMMY HIGGS
My husband's an awesome sport. :) He hates his picture being taken,
but when I see a spot I want to shoot, he willing steps in and poses for me. :)
TAYLOR HAIDLE
This is one of the photos taken the day we found the old abandoned house on the side of the road. My favorite has disappeared somewhere in my computer. Can't find it.
BRITNEY HIGGS
CAMBLIN FAMILY
SAMMY HIGGSMy husband's an awesome sport. :) He hates his picture being taken,
but when I see a spot I want to shoot, he willing steps in and poses for me. :)
TAYLOR HAIDLEThis is one of the photos taken the day we found the old abandoned house on the side of the road. My favorite has disappeared somewhere in my computer. Can't find it.
BRITNEY HIGGSSelf-portraiture project. This one was challenging... but fun.:)
I need to redue the editing... someday..
CAMBLIN FAMILY Taken in Holyoke, Colorado
TAYLOR HAIDLE
TAYLOR HAIDLEThis is pre-editing. I need to fix some shadows. :)
TAYLOR HAIDLEThis photograph was taking on the road between Sterling and Holyoke, Colorado.
We saw this amazing rainbow and stopped to capture it.
The exposure is somewhat overexposed... and there were
raindrops on my lense...
but it still looks like it could be used in a skittle commercial
so I thought I'd throw it in here. :)
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Alfred Eisenstaedt
ALFRED EISENSTAEDT
Alfred Eisenstaedt is a brilliant photographer who is best known for his work in the Times and LIFE. Alfred started working for Time in the 1930's and continued through the 60's.
He was able to capture real life images and bring a certain emotional and vocal reaction to his photography. He, along with four other photographers, produced photos for Time magazine that would incorporate what the magazine was headlining at the time and the articles in which the magazine would hold.
Alfred has won many awards over the years including the National Medal of the Arts, the International Understanding Award for Outstanding Achievement, the Photographic Society of America Achievement Award, and Photographer of the Year.
Along with working as a full time photographer, Alfred also wrote many books. As an aspiring photographer and writer, I have officially labeled this guy as one of my favorite photographers of this time period. I also really love the vintage feel of his photography (seeing as it was composed between the 30's and 60's) and can really relate to a lot of his compositions.
He was able to capture real life images and bring a certain emotional and vocal reaction to his photography. He, along with four other photographers, produced photos for Time magazine that would incorporate what the magazine was headlining at the time and the articles in which the magazine would hold.
Alfred has won many awards over the years including the National Medal of the Arts, the International Understanding Award for Outstanding Achievement, the Photographic Society of America Achievement Award, and Photographer of the Year.
Along with working as a full time photographer, Alfred also wrote many books. As an aspiring photographer and writer, I have officially labeled this guy as one of my favorite photographers of this time period. I also really love the vintage feel of his photography (seeing as it was composed between the 30's and 60's) and can really relate to a lot of his compositions.
Little interesting fact: He was one of Marilyn Manroe's photographers.
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